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Shirting Guide : Fundamentals

Updated: Sep 24, 2020

In this guide, we will be going through the fundamentals of a bespoke shirt and the most common design features that you will be able to change to fit the occasion and your lifestyle.

1. Fit

Classic :

- Traditional tailoring with priority on comfort and mobility

- Generously cut on body and sleeve

- Best for figures with a rounder stomach

- Unflattering for slim figures

Slim/Modern :

- Shirt cut closer to body, giving more shape and form

- Higher armhole, tapered sleeves, narrow chest, slim waist

- Recommended fit for all figures

2. Collars

Picking a collar shape is the most critical part of the process, and you should make sure that the collar will accommodate your preferred tie knot. Dramatic, bulky knots are best suited to wide cutaway collars. Button-downs also work well without ties, as do mid-pointed styles. Tabs and pin-collars are great for vintage looks and for holding a tie in place. After you have picked the collar, select a cuff that complements it. You probably wouldn’t order a formal double-cuff with an informal button-down collar, for example.

3. Cuffs

Square/Round/Angled can be made with double buttons and shape is a matter of preferance.

French Cuffs can be single or double with the Double French Cuff being the most elegant with your tuxedo.

4. Plackets

French/No - folded under, neat and modern

Visible/American - reinforced visible strip, creating symmetry

Covered/Hidden - buttons are covered, giving a sleek clean look

5. Pockets

No Pockets - Formal

One /Two Pockets - Informal

Modern shirting are usually done without pockets unless for stylistic or fashion details. Ie patch or contrasting colours, etc.

Our preference is without pockets for a cleaner look.

6. Hem

The hem is the bottom part of the shirt where you can decide between classic rounded or squared. Hem lengths are what distinguishes formal and informal shirts, in the sense of whether it is tucked or untucked.

7. Other Details

There are many design customization that can be done according to your preferences with a bespoke shirt. Speak to your tailor and get the best recommendations for your shape and style!

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