Shirting Guide : Fundamentals

In this guide, we will be going through the fundamentals of a bespoke shirt and the most common design features that you will be able to change to fit the occasion and your lifestyle.

1. Fit

Classic :

- Traditional tailoring with priority on comfort and mobility

- Generously cut on body and sleeve

- Best for figures with a rounder stomach

- Unflattering for slim figures

Slim/Modern :

- Shirt cut closer to body, giving more shape and form

- Higher armhole, tapered sleeves, narrow chest, slim waist

- Recommended fit for all figures

2. Collars

Picking a collar shape is the most critical part of the process, and you should make sure that the collar will accommodate your preferred tie knot. Dramatic, bulky knots are best suited to wide cutaway collars. Button-downs also work well without ties, as do mid-pointed styles. Tabs and pin-collars are great for vintage looks and for holding a tie in place. After you have picked the collar, select a cuff that complements it. You probably wouldn’t order a formal double-cuff with an informal button-down collar, for example.

3. Cuffs

Square/Round/Angled can be made with double buttons and shape is a matter of preferance.

French Cuffs can be single or double with the Double French Cuff being the most elegant with your tuxedo.

4. Plackets

French/No - folded under, neat and modern

Visible/American - reinforced visible strip, creating symmetry

Covered/Hidden - buttons are covered, giving a sleek clean look

5. Pockets

No Pockets - Formal

One /Two Pockets - Informal

Modern shirting are usually done without pockets unless for stylistic or fashion details. Ie patch or contrasting colours, etc.

Our preference is without pockets for a cleaner look.

6. Hem

The hem is the bottom part of the shirt where you can decide between classic rounded or squared. Hem lengths are what distinguishes formal and informal shirts, in the sense of whether it is tucked or untucked.

7. Other Details

There are many design customization that can be done according to your preferences with a bespoke shirt. Speak to your tailor and get the best recommendations for your shape and style!

Complete Bespoke Guide to Men's Dress Codes

White Tie? Creative Black Tie? What Now?

So you've been invited to a wedding and the invitation says white tie, it is not unusual for panicked questions racing across your mind once the initial excitement is over. What is that? Can I wear a Tuxedo? Bowtie or Tie?

Fret not! We will list a quick rundown on all the formalities and Vestio Bespoke got you covered.

---

Morning Dress

+ Known as formal day dress or morning suit

+ Only worn during the day, before 6pm

+ Morning coat, cutaway front, peak lapels

+ Waistcoat, same fabric as coat or coloured ("odd waistcoat")

+ Trousers, grey striped or checks

+ Shirt, turndown collar with tie or high wing collar with formal ascot

+ Shoes, black oxfords or boots

+ Optional, top hat, cane, umbrella, pocket watch, boutonniere

---

White Tie

+ Known as full evening dress, tails or dress suits

+ Most formal style of dress for the evening

+ Tailcoat, peak lapels, worn unbuttoned

+ Waistcoat, white, low cut

+ Trousers, high waisted with braids on sides

+ Shirt, wing-tip with stiff fronts

+ Shoes, black shoes, court or opera

+ White Bowtie

---

Black Tie

+ Less formal than white tie

+ Tuxedo Jacket, dark coloured with silk lapels

+ Cummerbund or low cut, waistcoat, never both

+ Trousers, braids on sides

+ Shirt, winged-collar, cufflink holes, pleated or bib

+ Shoes, black, patent, or velvet slippers

+ Bowtie, Cufflinks, Shirt studs

---

Creative Black Tie

+ Twist on the formal black tie, play on the main attributes

+ Tuxedo Jacket, go loud with bold colours or patterns with silk lapels

+ Cummerbund/Waistcoat, coloured only if tuxedo is more subdued

---

Cocktail/Fashionable Attire

+ In between black tie and smart casual

+ Suit, try lighter colours, or lighter materials ie linens, or monotone

+ Shirt, opt for an air tie(buttoned up without tie)

+ Swap your shirt for a rollneck or a tshirt

+ Shoes, put your best foot forward

+ More is more is more can be ostentatious unless you are a maestro of maximalism, for the rest of us, edit your look to have one focal point, be it colour, jacket, accessories, or shirt.

+ Contrast is key, bold jacket - simple shirt, statement coat - subdued inners, loud trousers - minimal top

---

Smart Casual / Business Casual

+ Fine line between smart casual and business casual

+ Business casual is for professional environment sans suit & tie

+ Smart Casual can be more informal such as jeans accented with a blazer

+ Jacket, sports, shade and fabrics can be more casual

+ Trousers, do not need to match jacket

+ Shirt, polos or tshirts are acceptable today

+ No Neckties

+ Shoes, ranging from moccasins, loafers to even sneakers

---

Business

+ Suit jacket & trousers should be the same fabric

+ Dark shades, navy, grey, black or patterned

+ Shirt, stiff collars,

+ Necktie, bold colours

+ Shoes, same colour as belt

---

Adhering to dress code is not just a formality or tradition, it is about showing respect to your host, respecting the professionalism of a workplace, etc.

That being said, as we go towards a more informal society, with offices filled with employees in track pants, what is acceptable as the dress code or the specifics of what you wear will be dependant on the event location and occasion. When in doubt, go all out, at least you will look better than those that do not bother.

5 Reasons Why Your Clothes Should Be Tailored

Regardless of your height or weight, it is always challenging to find clothes that fit you perfectly. Having your clothes tailored is an easy and affordable way to achieve a more flattering appearance and looking sharp.

When your clothing fits you properly, you have more confidence, and it shows that you care for everything you do, professionally and personally.

Here are the 5 reasons why your clothes should be tailored:

1. The Perfect Fit

When you buy a mass produced, off the rack item of clothing, there is a high chance that it may not fit properly as it does not take into account people come in all different shapes and sizes. Common issues such as sleeve length too short, shirt length too long, fits the shoulder but too big in the mid area.

With Bespoke services, you are in complete control of how you want the clothes to fit. More than 15 data points of your body are taken to ensure a perfectly crafted garment to fit one person, you.

2. Personality

Don’t believe the hype from over-rated labels that come with a heavy price tag but deliver an ordinary look. When you choose custom tailoring your garment will be crafted to your personal tastes and character, after all, fashion is the expression of your personality.

3. Fabric

Fabric comes in a variety of hues, shades and material composition. With tailoring, you are in full control over what print is being used, the best material for your needs, and the quality of fabric or thread count.

4. Quality

Quality is the most important and perhaps the biggest advantage of custom clothing. Construction quality will increase your garments life-span, and in the case of canvassed suits, allow the garment to adapt to the shape of your body over time.

5. Design & Details

Bespoke services allow you to be your own designer, being able to customize every minute detail. From cuffs to collars, lapels and linings, threads and embroideries, it can all be made to your exact taste and specifications.

At Vestio Bespoke, suits are just the beginning, we tailor shirts, coats, bomber jackets, trousers, shorts, lounge wear and casual wear, all from your measurements. If you can dream it, we will try our best to bring it to life.